However, for a country as politically controlled as it is, it still held a lot to see, and we nevertheless had a great time. There were thousand year old monuments, ancient madrasas, and aside from certain markets most sites were rarely crowed. In fact, sometimes I would deliberately bump into Mike and exclaim, “Excuse me, pardon me.” As if it were very crowded and we would both laugh.
When we returned from our trip I often said to my friends and family that many tourists go to Turkey, some non-American tourists go to Uzbekistan, but Americans never go on vacation to Afghanistan, except us.
Anyway, getting back to Uzbekistan. I wish I could say that we used our manual transmission driving skills there, but fortunately our guide did all of the work. We went on many lengthy journeys down dusty roads, and visited several fine local restaurants along the way. Fine if you enjoy lots and lots of kebab and Lagman soup as I do. However, my doctor commented that my protein levels were high when I returned from the trip, no surprise there. At least I returned in one piece.
In Uzbekistan they have a motto “Good luck.” It seems to apply all the time and they say it frequently. For example, when you come to the country, meet a pretty girl, and especially when you are trying to leave the airport, you’ll often hear ”Good luck.” However, I remember being held in a room with a large fat security guard who was poring over my Uzbeki CD collection. (Which someone sold me in the Fargana market and which I later discovered to be all blank.) There seemed to a problem with something in my bag. Turned out to be my multi-purpose tool and swiss army knife.
“Why do you have these?” The official asked gruffly.
I tried to joke with him, but I think the humor went over his head. I should have been more scared to be in that room alone with him, but strangely I was quite calm.
He said he had to confiscate both items even though they were in my checked bag, basically he stole them. For some reason they are very particular about multi purpose tools and swiss army knives. I guess they are not very common and are very desirable. Fortunately, with luck on my side, I made the flight just in time, again.
Getting anywhere in Uzbekistan requires some luck too. The roads rarely have signs, and it seemed that our driver spent a lot of time just trying to find his way. He often had to ask locals in Russian or Uzbek things like, “Is this the way to Samarkand?”
Most of the people we met while traveling tended to be on donkeys, or vendors selling melon or nasty balls of yogurt on the side of the road. I remember fondly how Mike tossed yogurt balls out the window after having a bad experience with them.
Then there was the frequent harassment by the police. For that reason alone I am glad we weren’t driving. Apparently, as in many countries, the police are very poorly paid and to make up for it they extort drivers for any infraction real or not.
Typically, you are pulled over and they check your license, but after you give them bribe money you are usually good. The Uzbek officials are really tough also when crossing borders, because they count all the money you have. They search you and if you return to the Uzbekistan with more money they you started with they confiscate the difference. You also have to keep a record in your passport with exactly how much money you have. “Good luck getting out of the country with any money.”
When Mike and I walked across the friendship bridge from Afghanistan back to Uzbekistan I felt a sense of relief. When we left Uzbekistan to get back to Turkey we felt more relieved, and when we finally returned to American despite getting my passport photocopied in Turkey, I felt even more relieved. Daresay, lucky to be home.
Life Lesson 23: Someone once said, “The harder you work, the luckier you are.” I agree with that statement that we make our own luck. That is why I am not a big believer in lotteries. However, in Yiddish they have an expression too, “Mazel tov.” which means good luck, but also congratulations on your efforts, situation, or good fortune, and those are things we all can work towards in our lives, and I hope all experience too, and If I haven’t said it enough times today,
“Good luck.” on your journey too.
Typically, you are pulled over and they check your license, but after you give them bribe money you are usually good. The Uzbek officials are really tough also when crossing borders, because they count all the money you have. They search you and if you return to the Uzbekistan with more money they you started with they confiscate the difference. You also have to keep a record in your passport with exactly how much money you have. “Good luck getting out of the country with any money.”
When Mike and I walked across the friendship bridge from Afghanistan back to Uzbekistan I felt a sense of relief. When we left Uzbekistan to get back to Turkey we felt more relieved, and when we finally returned to American despite getting my passport photocopied in Turkey, I felt even more relieved. Daresay, lucky to be home.
Life Lesson 23: Someone once said, “The harder you work, the luckier you are.” I agree with that statement that we make our own luck. That is why I am not a big believer in lotteries. However, in Yiddish they have an expression too, “Mazel tov.” which means good luck, but also congratulations on your efforts, situation, or good fortune, and those are things we all can work towards in our lives, and I hope all experience too, and If I haven’t said it enough times today,
“Good luck.” on your journey too.
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